Before you call, a few things worth looking at yourself. First, the springs - if you see a gap in the coil or hear a bang and the door won't lift, that's a broken torsion spring, and it's not a DIY fix; the tension involved is dangerous. Second, the tracks - run your hand along them (door closed, power to the opener off) and feel for rust pitting or bends, which shows up more on original 1950s-era track than on anything installed in the last twenty years. Third, the cables - fraying at the drum end is common on hardware that's gone unreplaced for decades.
Fourth, listen to the opener. A grinding or straining sound usually means the opener is fighting springs that no longer carry their share of the door's weight, which is common when a newer opener got bolted onto older door hardware without anyone rebalancing the door itself.
If none of that matches what you're seeing, that's fine - tell us what you hear and see when you call, and we'll tell you honestly whether it sounds like a quick fix or something that needs a look in person before we say more.